1. The original OEM port at the top of the actuator connects to the vacuum, controlling the actuator.
2. The added port is a breather which can be connected up into the engine bay and fitted with an air filter keeping the diaphragm free from dust and water.

How to change the PSI on actuators such as the CT-26 and the TD-42.

1. Loosen 10mm m6 locking nut on the actuator arm thread.
2. Remove the circlip at the end of the actuator arm.
3. Remove actuator adjuster from the waste-gate arm.
4. Rotate the adjuster anti-clockwise for more boost or clockwise for reduced boost and place back on wastegate arm.
5. Tighten back the 10mm m6 nut to required boost.

WARNING: Do not attempt to alter the boost levels without a trained mechanic at hand. GTurbo does not accept liability for any issue associated with post manufacturing alterations. In addition, do not attempt to adjust VNT controlled turbos. VNT turbos should only be adjusted by specialised tuners.

1. Remove the module, harness and blanking plug from the packaging.
2. Locate the mass air pressure sensor. The map sensor is located at the back of the cast aluminium intake piping just after your exhaust recirculation system that sits above your rocker cover.
3. Locate your injector pump/plug. This is located underneath your intake manifold towards the front of your engine. It is usually covered with a two-piece black plastic cover which consists of two 10mm bolts and three 12mm bolts. These will need to be removed to access the injector pump plug. There will be two connections on your injector pump. The one you need to intercept is the grey/white male to female plug.
4. Find a location for your module. Keep in mind the plugs/terminals need to be able to reach the main battery and other connections without tension being on the harness. Once you have found a location, lay out the wiring harness from the module to the connections (Map sensor, injector pump, main battery) so you have a rough idea of where they need to go.
5. Take your harness and route it through to the connections neatly, try to follow existing wires while keeping them away from anything that can damage them, such as coolant lines/moving parts. Once the harness is in place, it’s time to connect your interception plugs. To do this, you simply disconnect the plug from your map sensor and injector pump and then plug them into the female connection on your harness. Grab your male connection on your harness and plug it into your map sensor + injector pump. Finally, you want to connect the positive and negative terminals to your main battery to supply power to your module.
6. The final step is securing your harness and module. To secure the harness, you want to cable tie it to the existing wires/pipes you routed them with, as for the module it’s entirely up to you as every vehicle is different.

Sudden power loss can occur on electronically controlled engines such as the: 1KD-FTV, 1VD FTV, and 1HD- FTE Landcruiser.

Under heightened boost conditions the boost line to the MAP sensor can become free if not fastened adequately. In the event of sudden power loss, GTurbo recommends checking the MAP sensor make sure it is attached securely.

he short answer is no, with the proviso that the engine is in excellent condition before performance modifications. A primed engine translates to no unusual noises, smoke, hard starting or worn components.

Let’s explain.

A significant performance related issue that affects diesel engines is too much heat. Elevated heat is why 4×4 enthusiasts install a common gauge an EGT (Exhaust Gas Temperature).

A simplistic explanation of elevated EGT is that there is too much fuel being injected into the motor causing it not being entirely consumed by the combustion process. This excess fuel creates high exhaust gas temperatures, which should be below 700°C with a probe pre-turbo, or 550°C with a probe post turbo.

The fueling levels are not only controlled by the drivers right foot, but by the settings made in the injection pump during it’s setup and any subsequent tuning. Maintain safe EGT levels by accurate tuning. This is done by the use of an Air Fuel Ratio probe.

Some people are worried about boost pressures too. However, in a performance tuning environment, boost is your friend. Boost pressure represents a mass of air that is being forced into the combustion chamber. The more air in the combustion chamber, the more fuel can be added to make increased power. Diesel engines are extraordinary in this way.

The trick to a safe engine is a correct air to fuel ratio. Given a GTurbo is engineered to provide a greater mass of air than the injection pump can produce, achieving proper air-fuel ratios while increasing performance is relatively easy. Performance is maintained with no smoke, excellent AFR’s and safe EGT. We will have it no other way.

A correctly tuned GTurbo in particular with a quality intercooler with you will find your engine oil stays cleaner because there is less residual soot in the combustion process. Fuel economy does not change dramatically; sometimes it even improves, all due to the higher efficiency of the engine.

All these factors augur well for long engine life.

Some people also are, rightfully, concerned about the effect of too high boost on their standard Toyota turbo. The waste-gated CT26 turbo on the six cyl engines DO eventually break at much above 14psi

However, the GTurbo is reengineered and balanced to effectively and safely run the boost we specify for long, life.

We offer two main specifications of turbochargers the four and six-cylinder engines.

The Grunter and the Bad Boy.

Technically there is a 9% difference in the specification of each.

The difference between the two is how you drive. The Grunter spec is excellent for low down torque, towing, and pulling hard through heavy beach sand where you don’t want to have to use lots of revs before you get any power. You’re getting the great boost at 1600rpm and maximum boost by 2000rpm.

They typically perform in the 18 – 26 psi range and transform the driving experience. Driving a manual gearbox, you no longer need to worry about losing boost on gear changes – it’s just always there ready to keep pulling.

For engines with a higher performance capacity, such as the 1HDT, 1HDFT, the Grunter Extreme is available. A billet wheel upgrade is available that maintains the low boost, but due to its superior design, strength and manufacturing accuracy, will provide high boost right through the rev range to similar levels as the Bad Boy

The Bad Boy range is for drivers who are willing to compromise a little of the lower boost response to gain more power for high-speed performance. In real driving, this compromise is minimal as the boost comes on sturdy well before 2000 rpm and climbs much higher than levels that are available with the Grunter range (26 to 35 psi).

GTurbo ships directly out of Perth with Australia Post and DHL. Tracking numbers are sent with purchase receipts.

Express Shipping Options

WA Express Shipping: 1-2 days

Eastern States Shipping: 1-2 days

Standard Shipping Options

WA Standard Shipping: 2-3 days

Eastern States Shipping: 6-7 days

Overseas Shipping Options

DHL Express: 6-7 days

One upgrade for turbochargers is to install a larger compressor wheel and lathe out the front cover to accommodate the larger size. Yes, this makes a performance difference.

To say the GTurbo is ‘high flowed’ is very simplistic and not a phrase we use.

The reality is, all GTurbo’s are re-engineered from the back to the front.

Correct sizing of the exhaust impeller or turbine affects turbo performance. A small turbine will be easy to spin at low engine speed but will spin too fast as high speed. A larger wheel will not start to rotate to an efficient speed until the engine speed is too high and the engine becomes a ‘horsepower hero’ with plenty of power at top speed, but nothing down low in the normal driving range. The GTurbo’s are sized to match the performance characteristics of each engine.

The shaft is beefed up to handle the higher load, and the internal bearings have been rebuilt to be more durable. The thrust bearing behind the front compressor wheel is a full 360°, as opposed to the 270° of standard turbochargers.

And finally the compressor wheel at the front, the component that pumps the air to the engine, has been completely re-engineered to not only be very quiet, and strong, but to maintain a solid ‘grip’ on the air at high speed and maintain exceptional efficiency across the whole rev range. This ability to keep pumping and not cavitating and creating heat is a stand out differently for the GTurbo.

Not only are all components re-engineered for maximum performance and efficiency, but the final assembly balance that makes the difference to the longevity and performance of the turbocharger is also critical. Our standards are incredibly high, and we are not satisfied until we can achieve figures measured in the thousandth of a gram, at least ten times better than commercial turbocharger manufacturers and factory units.   We use some of the latest European turbocharger balancing equipment available and are proud of our results created.

To provide as much of a factory appearance for our customer’s vehicles, all our turbochargers are OEM replacement on the flanges that bolt onto the exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe.

Some vehicles inbuilt computer provides a readout of distance to empty fuel consumption.

If you fit a chip or piggyback computer to a vehicle such as this, the readouts will be incorrect – no matter which module you install.

The reason is that the OEM computer calculates these figures from the injected volumes, not a fuel flow meter in the fuel pipe. With entirely modified injected volumes, and this between the OEM computer and the engine control systems, the OEM computer has no idea of the real fuel use.